There are two ways to try typical Spanish tapas in Madrid.
The first one : follow the Google map, enter the first place that appears, order what sounds most Spanish, pay double what it's worth and leave with the feeling that something has gone wrong.
The second : know what you're looking for, go where it belongs, and leave thinking that you now understand why Spaniards place so much importance on eating well.
This article is for those who want the second option.
We've been in the Mercado de la Paz in Madrid for over fifty years. I've seen visitors from all over the world come through. And what they almost always ask me is the same: "What should I try?" and "Where?"
Here it is. No beating around the bush.
First, one thing: what exactly is a lid?

Good question. And not so easy to answer.
In Spain, depending on where you are, the same idea can be called different things:
- Top: A small portion served with a drink. In some places, they still give it to you for free with wine or beer.
- Pincho or pintxo: A bite-sized snack on bread, often held with a toothpick. Typical of the Basque Country and Navarre, although you'll find them all over Spain.
- Ration: A large version of a tapa, for sharing or for the hungry.
- Half portion: The intermediate version. The most sensible one when you want to try several things.
- Pecking: The act of trying things out here and there, without order or protocol. My favorite way.
And then there's vermouth, which isn't the tapa itself, but the ritual. Having vermouth on a Saturday at midday in Spain is practically an institution. It's not just the drink: it's the perfect excuse to sit down, order something, take your time, and chat.
And where does all this come from?
According to the most widespread legend, tapas originated as a lid. Literally. A slice of ham or a piece of bread placed over a glass of wine to keep flies out. Some attribute its creation to King Alfonso XIII, others to the Andalusian taverns of the 19th century. What is certain is that the concept of eating something small while drinking something small is in the DNA of Spanish gastronomy. And Madrid, which has welcomed people from all regions for centuries, has turned it into its own art form.
Typical Spanish tapas that you can't leave without trying
This isn't a list of the most photogenic. It's a list of the ones that matter.
First of all: not all ham is the same. That needs to be clear.
Iberian acorn-fed ham — from pigs raised in the dehesa (pastureland) and fed on acorns—is something else entirely. The color, the marbling of the fat, the aroma when you slice it with a knife. It's nothing like what you find packaged in the supermarket.
Try it freshly sliced. And if you can, with some bread, tomato, and extra virgin olive oil. That's perfection.

The gilda is the quintessential pintxo . And the most democratic: an olive, a chili pepper, and a preserved anchovy skewered on a toothpick.
Small, intense, with that spicy and salty touch that makes you want another glass almost immediately. They say it's named after the Rita Hayworth movie because it's "spicy, salty, and a little green." I haven't been able to verify that, but I love the story.
What I can tell you is what happens at home. Every time I'm invited for drinks or lunch, they ask me to bring gildas. Especially the kitchen kind. And at home, it's always a sure thing: some gildas and a leisurely vermouth guarantee a great Sunday. Those things that seem simple but end up being the ones you remember most.
There are croquettes and there are croquettes.
The good ones have a smooth, well-blended béchamel sauce, without lumps, and they taste like what's inside: Iberian ham, cod, mushrooms. They don't taste like flour.
Bad ones abound. Beware of frozen ones disguised as homemade.
- Omelette
The most Spanish dish there is. And the one that generates the most debate: with onions or without onions.
I'm not going to take sides. But I will say that a good tortilla has to be juicy inside. If it's dry and dense, something's gone wrong.
At the Mercado de la Paz you can find some of the best in Madrid. With or without onions.
Anchovies marinated in vinegar with garlic and parsley are a tapa that practically demands a cold beer . It's not optional.
If the anchovy is cooked properly, it will have firm flesh, be white on the outside, and not have too much vinegar. If it's mushy and tastes purely acidic, it means someone undercooked it or added too much vinegar.
- Patatas bravas (spicy potatoes)
French fries with sauce. But done right, that's a different story.
In Madrid, brava sauce has to be spicy . If it's not spicy, it's not brava. Some versions also include aioli, which softens the heat but adds creaminess. Both options have their supporters and detractors. This is subjective—I, for one, am a self-confessed hater of spicy food—but the debate is part of the ritual. And that, too, is a tapa.
- Bread with tomato
Simple. Effective. Very Catalan in origin, very universal in the result.
Rustic or toasted bread, grated ripe tomato, extra virgin olive oil, salt. It's one of those tapas that needs no explanation: you walk in, see it on the bar, and order it.

The world of high-quality gourmet preserves is one that many people discover late. Too late.
A pickled mussel from a good Spanish cannery is a serious product. It has its own personality. The pickling liquid—vinegar, oil, bay leaf, spices—transforms them. They don't taste like tin. They taste of the sea, with nuances.
Paired with a glass of chilled white wine , they're a combination that's hard to beat.
These are not the pork rinds you know from other places.
The good ones are light, crispy, fried pork rind that melts in your mouth. They're perfect with a glass of manzanilla or fino sherry.
We make ours our way. Selected Iberian pork belly—sometimes Duroc—is seared and then slow-cooked for 24 hours in a low oven. Afterward, it's toasted at 120 degrees Celsius with lard and dry heat. The result is unique. And for many, the best they've ever tasted.
When you truly experience them like this, you understand why they are an institution in southern Spain.
- Artisan cheese with quince
A cheese board isn't a second-rate tapa. It's a tapa for those who know what they want.
A good aged Manchego cheese, a flavorful blue cheese, a fresh goat cheese. Each one at its best, with its perfect accompaniment. Quince paste is the classic partner for Manchego. And a good grape juice or a port wine completes the meal in a way that no one would dispute.
And what about pinchos? Are they the same as tapas?
Not quite.
A pintxo is, technically, a small bite served on bread or with a toothpick . It's the quintessential Basque and Navarrese format: in San Sebastián or Pamplona, you walk into a bar, see a counter full of pintxos of all kinds, and order the ones you want. You pay per pint.
In Madrid, the format is different. Here, tapas are more common : you order a tapa with your drink, or a portion to share, or a selection of various things throughout the afternoon.
But the line between tapa and pincho is blurry. And in Madrid, which has absorbed customs from all over Spain, you'll find everything. Nobody's going to fine you for calling a pincho a tapa, or vice versa.
Where to get tapas in Madrid without making a mistake
Madrid has many places. Too many, if you don't know how to tell them apart.
What I would do if I arrived in Madrid for the first time:
- I would avoid the Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía area for tapas. It's not that it's impossible to find something good, but the value for money suffers and the atmosphere is more touristy than local.
- I would look for food marketsThe San Miguel Market, the San Antón Market in Chueca, and the Vallehermoso Market in Chamberí. They concentrate products and offerings in a single space.
- And if I want the best without surprises, I would go to the Peace Market.
If you want a complete guide to Madrid's food markets —which ones are truly worth visiting, which ones are just for show, and where each one is located—I'll tell you everything in this article: Food Markets in Madrid for Tapas
At Álvarez Selección: tapas and gourmet products at the Mercado de la Paz
When you enter the Peace Market and arrive at our stall —shop 115, I've been here for over fifty years— two things happen.
First : you can enjoy your aperitif properly . Everything is made with hand-selected gourmet products. Hand-carved acorn-fed Iberian ham. Our signature gildas. Iberian ham croquettes that actually taste like ham, which is exactly how they should. Pork cracklings. A selection of artisanal cheeses. And our own house-made products that you won't find anywhere else.
In 2018, we opened our own artisanal workshop with a licensed artisanal production license—one of only three active in all of Spain. From there come our pastrami, roast beef, duck foie gras with truffle, and slow-cooked turkey breast. These delicacies were created for our customers and are now some of our most popular items.
Secondly: if while you're enjoying tapas you get the urge to take something home —and you will— I'll help you choose . Over 500 gourmet options. No rush, and I won't just throw in the first thing I see.
And if you want to take it with you to London, Mexico City, or wherever you live, we'll vacuum-seal it so it travels with you without any problem. Many of our customers leave with half a suitcase full of gourmet products. And they arrive home with everything in perfect condition.
When to come?
We are located in store 115, Mercado de la Paz, Cl. de Ayala, 28, Salamanca, 28001 Madrid.
We are open Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. On Saturdays, from 21:00 a.m. to 16:00 p.m.
If you want a relaxed aperitif with a lively atmosphere, Saturday morning is unbeatable. If you prefer a weekday without waiting, any afternoon will do.
And if you'd like more than just tapas—a private tasting, a group experience, or pairings with explanations —send us a message on WhatsApp. We'll arrange it with you.
PS1: There are good tapas in Madrid. But you have to know where to look. Google Maps won't tell you that.
P.S. 2: The Gilda is worth the wait.
P.S. 3: If you're torn between ham and cheese, order both. That's what I'm here for.